![]() The meat-eater in our group declared the purple sprouting broccoli with a creamy cannellini dip his favourite, whilst I – a lifelong herbivore – mistakenly fell for the pane carasau, a Sardinian flatbread with dandelion and fish roe (oops). Does it mean a simple platter of coppa di parma with pickled fennel gets a disproportionate amount of airtime at the table? Absolutely. Does it justify £5 for a single crab croquette? Perhaps not. Chef Knight has always preferred to work with just a few ingredients, and her succinct approach simultaneously surprises and delights: every delivery of a dish came with a sense of anticipation. Perhaps he does this for all his tables, but who cares? We felt ridiculously spoiled, and like we’d been let in on a secret – which is how all good restaurants should make you feel.ĭespite the impressive contemporary collection of works on the walls, the menu design is more crayons-at-Pizza-Hut, but the dishes themselves were so masterful it took us until the third course to even notice. Halfway through our meal, our waiter Luis lowered his voice and asked if we’d like to see the rooftop, slipping us the key with a conspiratorial wink. Not only does this place know how to have a good time, but it slyly distracts you from the fact that it sounds like it might one day demand a four-figure membership fee by making you wish, more than anything, that you could pay it. ![]() And I was having so much fun that I accidentally ate fish for the first time in over a decade – moreover, I didn’t particularly mind. I love this place’.Īn elegant, pearls-and-perm lady in the bathroom whispered, ‘What a fabulous place this is,’ as we gazed through the lunette window into the atrium below. But during a single visit to Sessions, one of my wide-eyed plus-ones turned to me and said earnestly, ‘Anna. He's teamed up with Polpetto alumni Florence Knight running the kitchen – making this a spot that's at risk of becoming somewhere that tries incredibly hard and falls incredibly short. ![]() It's owned by artist Jonathan Gent, who runs a studio in the Scottish Highlands and once poached Michelin-starred chef Aaron Jones for a Dubai art café. Lofty ceilings provide ample displace space: Milly Thompson’s splashy canvases hang on the walls a series of Shaan Syed’s abstract block prints complement the peeling green paint and exposed apricot plaster beneath. Once in, we ascended four floors to what used to be a vast judges' dining room, where a mezzanine of leather banquettes and a Gabriele Beveridge sculpture suspended mid-air bears witness to the buzz below. Despite the price tag and the size, it’s easy to miss the entrance to the gorgeous 18th-century Grade II listed landmark – we walked past the discreet doorbell twice. But if the latter has up and come, the former isn’t far behind, in no small part due to a £15 million renovation of the Old Sessions House, bought by Sätila Studio and sensitively restored over the last seven years. No one really knows if Farringdon is in Clerkenwell or not.
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